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I am not an adventurous, outdoorsy kind of person. Any time that we have the opportunity to travel (which I suppose is an adventure – right?), I am drawn to the quaint village or big city. I want to sit in a building that takes my breath away – a place that you can climb stone steps worn from a thousand years’ worth of footprints – where you can touch a 2 foot thick wall that has protected generations – where your gaze is drawn Heavenward and you just sit in awe of the handiwork of stone masons and craftsman whose legacy lives on in their masterpiece.
Skellig Michael is an island that sits in the Atlantic Ocean about 8 miles off the southwest coast of Ireland. 8 miles. It is accessible only by boat (think small fishing vessel) and those only run when the weather is cooperating. The monastic dwelling sits around 600 feet above sea level and is reached via stone steps (sans railing) that appear to have been there as long as the island has. It doesn’t immediately spring to mind as being one of those places that would sit high on my travel bucket list.
My husband thought otherwise, so we talked about it, booked our reservation, filed away the phone number that we would need to call the morning of to make sure our tour was running, and I prayed… for calm seas, for stamina in my legs, that I wouldn’t stumble to my death on those stone steps, and that above all – I wouldn’t get seasick. (Nausea is kind of my worst nightmare.)
We have had the opportunity to see so many beautiful places in our lives, but the day that we got to visit Skellig Michael will always remain at the top of that list. Always.
The morning of our tour, the air and the sea were so calm, it was unbelievable. Our boat captain pulled up right on time and looked every bit the part of what you would want an Irish sea captain to look – tousled white hair, a thick cable-knit sweater, sun-weathered skin, and a smile in his eyes. We boarded with 4 other guests and made our way smoothly across the sea, passing by a bird-covered Little Skellig. We reached our destination and bobbed about in the sea for a few minutes until it was our turn to dock. Only a handful of boats are allowed to dock each day and we were one of a fortunate few. We meandered along the path, climbing ever upwards (me hugging the side of the steps that wouldn’t lead to my untimely death should I trip), and ultimately reached our destination; a monastic dwelling that has been here since 600 AD. 600!
– a place that you can see stone steps worn from a thousand years’ worth of footprints… ✔️
– a place where you can touch a 2 foot thick wall that has protected generations… ✔️
– a place where your gaze is drawn Heavenward and you just sit in awe of the handiwork of stone masons and craftsman whose legacy lives on in their masterpiece… ✔️
This island of Skellig Michael is absolutely stunning and otherworldly. We got to spend our afternoon exploring thousand year old water-tight dwellings, taking photos, hanging on until the last second to this incredible place. Other tourists made their way back down to the boat, giving us a few precious moments to soak it all in and capture photos without a single soul. It changed me, this place. To be able to walk and sit and soak where others have lived and worked and worshipped for well over a thousand years – what an incredible treasure.
Skellig Michael was not on my bucket list of places to visit, but to this day, it stands out as one of our travel highlights. It is a photographer’s dream, is more than worthy of an adventurer, is a historian’s fantasy, is full of natural beauty and wildlife to admire, and is a must on any traveler’s list.
And the fact that it was recently featured in a Star Wars movie makes it that much more fun. Our captain made the credits as the “Lead Boatman” for helping with transporting cast, crew, and equipment for the film. This is a place you don’t want to miss.
THE DETAILS
Who? – We traveled with Seanie at Sea Quest and had an awesome experience! You can find his contact info here – https://www.skelligsrock.com/ . There are lots of other companies that make this trip as well if you want to do a little more research.
What should I take? – A backpack with whatever you’ll need for a full day. The boat ride is early in the day and lasted about an hour. Our morning was chilly, but by the time we got to the top of the island, we were warm and ready to shed some layers. We brought water bottles, snacks, and our cameras. There are no bathrooms or facilities on the island, so pack prepared for the day.
Where? – You will leave from Portmagee. We stayed in a hostel (can’t recommend) in Killarney (super cute) the night before and arrived at the dock via our rental car.
When? – Mid-May through September are your best chances at getting a “landing tour” on the island. You will need to be at the dock around 8:00am for the one trip that the boat makes daily.
How much? – It is expensive, but I would say it’s worth it for this once in a lifetime experience. Eco tours cost less, but also don’t allow you to land on the island. For current prices, check out the “booking” section of the site.
And if you are going to be in Ireland, here are a few recommendations for you. Our favorite travel guides that we get for every trip we go on. These are where we start when we begin planning a trip. Pop-out maps for cities (yep – I get that you could use your phone, but this is infinitely better in my opinion because you can see it all at once). My favorite travel wallet with places for passports, your phone, tickets, cards, and cash. And a portable charger for all of our gear. We never travel without one.
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